How to find your saddle seat size (tap to enlarge)
Height and weight give a starting point, but that is not where it ends. Two people of the same height and weight with different waist and thigh measurements can easily need different seat sizes. Leg length, thigh size and how you like to sit all matter.
How to measure a western saddle seat
Set the saddle on a stand or a level surface.
Place the end of a tape measure at the back of the swell (the fork), just below the horn.
Run the tape straight back to the front edge of the cantle. Measure in a straight line, not following the dip of the seat.
Read the number in inches. That is the seat size.
How to measure an English saddle seat
Find the nailhead (the small button) on the side of the pommel.
Measure straight across to the centre of the back of the cantle.
The most common construction factor that changes the size you need is the padding of the seat. We measure all of our saddles as the finished seat size for this reason. Many sellers use the tree measurement, taken on the bare tree before the saddle is built. The problem is that a 15″ tree with a hard seat gives you 1/3″ to 1/2″ more room to actually sit in than a 15″ tree with a padded seat.
If you are buying a saddle anywhere else, always ask which measurement you are being given: finished seat or tree.
Why two saddles of the same size can feel different
Swells that are wider or sweep back toward your leg, or cantles that curve further forward, reduce the room for your thigh and make a saddle feel smaller than it measures. The reverse is also true: a more open swell and cantle can make a saddle feel larger than it measures.
If you are worried about room for your thigh, ask for a measurement from the base of the swell to the base of the cantle, and compare it with the same measurement on the saddle you ride now.
Seat sizes by riding style
What you do in the saddle changes the size you will want. Quick turns and fast starts call for a more secure, snugger seat. Climbing hills or sitting a cutting horse needs a little more room.
Treat these as a starting point, not a rule. Your build and the saddle’s swell and cantle shape still decide the final size.
Western vs English saddle sizes
Western and English seats are measured from different points, so the numbers do not match. As a rule of thumb, an English seat measures about 2″ larger than the western seat the same rider would use: a rider comfortable in a 15″ western saddle will usually look at a 17″ English saddle. Australian saddles follow a similar pattern, which is covered in detail in our Australian vs western seat size guide.
Brands vary, so use this to narrow your search, then sit in the saddle.
Part 2: Measuring your horse
Seat size does not tell you whether a saddle fits your horse. That depends on the tree (the saddle’s internal frame) and the gullet (the channel under the pommel that sits over the withers). A 17″ seat can be built on a narrow tree or a wide one.
Know the areas that affect fit
Withers: high, medium or low withers change how much clearance the front of the saddle needs.
Shoulder blades: the saddle has to sit behind them so the shoulders can move freely.
Spine: nothing on the saddle should press on it, anywhere along its length.
Back length: the saddle’s bearing surface should not extend past the last rib.
Back shape: straight, dipped or rounded backs contact the saddle differently.
Take a wither tracing
Stand your horse square on level ground with its head in a natural position.
Find the back edge of the shoulder blade. Move about two inches behind it.
Bend a flexible curve (or a length of soft wire) over the withers at that point, pressing it gently to follow the shape on both sides.
Lift it off without changing the shape and trace the inside edge onto paper. Label left and right.
A tracing is a record of your horse’s shape. Keep it, and repeat it every few months: it shows you when your horse’s shape has changed, and it is the most useful thing to send a saddle maker or seller when asking about fit.
Measure the back length
Measure from just behind the shoulder blade back to the last rib (you can feel it and follow it up to the spine). That is the space a saddle can use. Short-backed horses often need a shorter saddle or rounded skirts.
Tree and gullet width
A gullet that is too narrow pinches the withers. One that is too wide lets the saddle sit down onto the withers and spine. The width has to match your horse at the front, and the angle of the bars has to match the slope of the horse’s back behind the shoulder.
Western saddles are usually sold by bar type, such as semi-quarter horse or full quarter horse bars. Full quarter horse bars suit broader, flatter-backed horses.
English saddles are sold by tree width, from narrow to extra wide. Many now have adjustable gullet plates or bars that can be changed as a horse’s shape changes.
Makers do not measure gullets the same way, so one brand’s “medium” or “semi-QH” can differ from another’s. The most reliable comparison is a saddle that already fits your horse well.
Part 3: Checking the fit on your horse
Measurements narrow the choice. This check tells you whether a saddle actually fits. Do it before your first ride in a new saddle.
Place it without a pad. Set the saddle slightly forward, then slide it back until it settles behind the shoulder blade. It should not sit on top of the shoulder.
Check wither clearance. You should fit two to three fingers between the withers and the underside of the pommel or fork. Check the sides of the withers too, not only the top.
Check spine clearance. Look through the gullet from the back. You should see daylight along the whole channel, with nothing touching the spine.
Check contact. Slide a flat hand under the bars or panels from front to back. Pressure should feel even. Watch for bridging (contact at the front and back but a gap in the middle) and rocking (the saddle see-saws when you press the front or back).
Check balance. Viewed from the side, the deepest part of the seat should be in the middle, and the saddle should not tip forward or back.
Add the pad and cinch or girth. Tighten gradually. The saddle should stay in place and not be pulled forward onto the shoulders.
Check again with the rider mounted. Wither clearance should still be at least two fingers, and the saddle should still sit level.
Check after the ride. Look at the sweat pattern under the saddle. It should be even. Dry patches in a sweaty area can mean too much pressure at that spot.
Can a saddle pad fix a poor fit?
A pad protects your horse’s back and can help with small issues, like a minor change in muscle. It cannot fix a tree that is the wrong width or angle. Adding a thicker pad to a saddle that is already tight makes it tighter. If the tree does not fit, the answer is a different saddle.
Signs a saddle does not fit
What your horse does
What you see on its back
Pins its ears or moves away when saddled
Uneven sweat marks or dry patches after riding
Is girthy or cranky when the cinch is tightened
Swelling, heat or tenderness where the saddle sits
Hollows its back or resists going forward
Rubbed hair around the withers or shoulders
Takes short, choppy strides or bucks
White hairs, which usually mark old pressure points
A rider who keeps sliding forward or back, or struggles to keep a balanced position, may be in a saddle that does not sit level on the horse. If you see these signs, stop riding in that saddle and check the fit again. If you are unsure, ask a professional saddle fitter, and speak to your vet about any soreness.
Common fitting mistakes
Choosing on seat size alone and never checking the tree.
Placing the saddle too far forward, on the shoulder blade.
Using a thick pad to make a saddle that does not fit feel better.
Assuming a saddle that fits one horse fits another.
Never re-checking. Horses change shape with age, fitness, weight and time off, so check the fit regularly and whenever your horse’s condition changes.
Buying a saddle from Horse Saddle Deals
Every saddle we list is measured as the finished seat size. If you are not sure which size to choose, call us on +1 (307) 271-0996 or send us a message. Tell us:
Your height and weight
The type of riding you will be doing
The size and brand of any saddle that fits you well now
Anything else that affects your comfort, such as long or short legs or larger thighs
Your horse’s build, and a wither tracing if you have one
For the rider, it depends on your build (especially thigh and leg length), your riding style and the saddle’s design. Many barrel racers ride a 13.5″ to 14″ western seat, ropers 14″ to 14.5″, and trail and pleasure riders 15″ to 16″. For the horse, the tree and gullet width have to match your horse’s withers and back, whatever the seat size.
What is the difference between seat size and tree size?
Seat size is the room you sit in. Tree size can mean either the length of the bare tree before the seat is built, or the tree’s width, which is about the horse. Because padding takes up room, a padded seat on a 15″ tree gives you less space than a hard seat on the same tree. That is why we list finished seat size.
Is a 17″ English saddle the same as a 17″ western saddle?
No. The two are measured from different points. A 17″ English saddle is closer to a 15″ western saddle for the same rider.
How much space should there be between the withers and the saddle?
Two to three fingers between the withers and the underside of the pommel, and at least two fingers once the rider is mounted. The gullet should also leave clear space along the full length of the spine.
Can I measure my horse for a saddle at home?
Yes. A flexible curve or soft wire, a tape measure and paper are enough to take a wither tracing and a back length. For a horse that is hard to fit, sore, or changing shape quickly, a professional saddle fitter is worth the cost.
This guide is provided for general information. Always sit in your saddle and check the fit on your horse before you ride in it.
