16 Inch Used Diamond Cross Barrel Saddle

A barrel saddle earns its keep in the turns, not on the shelf, and the specs on this one are built around exactly that. This 16-inch used Diamond Cross barrel saddle runs on an X-wide Ralide tree — a one-piece, injection-molded synthetic tree that holds its shape run after run without the flex or shrink you can get with an aging wood tree. It won’t give the way a wood-and-rawhide tree can, but it also won’t warp or crack from humidity the way older trees sometimes do, which is exactly why budget-minded barrel saddles have leaned on Ralide for years.

The 16-inch leather seat sits over in-skirt rigging, keeping the cinch pulled in tight to the horse rather than hanging low off the side — the setup most barrel racers prefer for a secure feel through fast direction changes. A 14-inch swell and 3.25-inch cantle keep you anchored through the pattern without boxing you in, and the black cross hardware carries the saddle’s namesake detail through the skirt and conchos.

Because this saddle is used, the leather has already gone through its break-in period — the seat and fenders won’t fight you the way brand-new leather can on the first several rides. As with any pre-owned saddle, it’s worth checking the billets, the rigging D-rings, and the tree itself for wear before it goes on a horse; a saddle that’s been ridden hard for years needs the same once-over you’d give a used truck, tooling aside.

If a 16-inch seat or X-wide tree isn’t the right fit for your horse, browse the rest of our barrel saddles and barrel racing saddles for other tree widths and seat sizes, or compare this one against a Circle Y barrel saddle if you’re weighing a more recognized name against the price. Not sure a 16-inch seat is right for you? Our saddle size guide covers how to check seat size against your own build rather than going off the number alone. And if this saddle isn’t quite it, every used saddle we sell can go toward a trade-in or consignment later on, so this doesn’t have to be your last barrel saddle purchase.

Specification:

• SADDLE TYPE: Barrel
• TREE SIZE: X Wide
• TREE MATERIAL: Ralide
• SEAT SIZE: 16 Inch
• SEAT MATERIAL: Leather
• CANTLE HEIGHT: 3.25Inch
• SWELL WIDTH: 14inch
• HORN SIZE: 3×1.75inch
• RIGGING: In Skirt
• HARDWARE: Black Cross
• SKIRT LENGTH: 25.5inch
• WEIGHT: Approx 25 lbs.

 FAQ

1. What is a Ralide tree, and is it a good choice for a barrel saddle?
   A Ralide tree is a one-piece, injection-molded synthetic tree — durable, consistent in shape, and typically lighter on the wallet than a wood or wood-and-rawhide tree. It won’t flex the way a wood tree can, but it also won’t crack or warp from age and moisture the same way, which is why it’s a common choice on working and entry-to-mid-range barrel saddles.
2. What does an X-wide tree mean for fit?
   Tree width describes how the saddle sits across your horse’s shoulders and withers, not the rider’s seat size. X-wide is built for a broader-built horse with a rounder wither — putting it on a narrower horse can cause the saddle to sit low and rock, so it’s worth checking your horse’s build against the tree width before buying, not just the seat size.
3. What’s the difference between in-skirt rigging and other rigging types?
   In-skirt rigging attaches the rigging plates underneath the fenders and skirt rather than on top, which keeps the cinch closer to the horse’s body. Barrel racers tend to prefer it for the tighter, more secure feel it gives through fast turns compared to on-skirt or exposed rigging setups.
4. How much should I expect to pay for a used barrel saddle?
   Used barrel saddle prices swing widely based on brand recognition, tree material, and tooling — a well-known name in excellent condition can run several thousand dollars, while a solid working saddle like this one, with a synthetic tree and straightforward tooling, typically comes in well under that. Price alone isn’t a quality signal; check tree condition and rigging wear first.
5. What should I inspect before buying a used barrel saddle?
   Start with the tree — press on it gently and check for cracks, give, or looseness, since that’s the part that can’t be cheaply repaired. Then check the billets and rigging D-rings for wear, since those take the most stress during hard stops and turns, and flex the fenders to gauge how much life is left in the leather.